Tag: sewing

FO Friday: Kalle Shirtdress

FO Friday: Kalle Shirtdress

Pattern: Kalle Shirtdress by Closet Case Patterns

Fabric: Cotton + Steel Mochi Speckled in Navy

Size: 10

Started: May 2017

Completed: June 2017

Y’all, I am so good and consistent at blogging. Here is a dress I finished last summer and photographed almost exactly a year ago. But I still love and wear this dress a ton, so I want to put it up! I had made several button up shirts before, but the Kalle was my first shirtdress. I adore them, and this pattern looked so accessible as a first one – the ease meant no fitting changes were necessary, and also make for a gorgeous silhouette.

Def wish I had ironed this before taking pictures 🙃I made a straight 10 and am happy with the fit. I’m about 15lbs heavier than when I made it and it still fits well enough that I get complimented on it regularly. The back definitely billows out – I’m not sure if that’s the box pleat or the cotton lawn.

I really love how the yoke flows into that sleeve.

When I look at my sewing queue it’s clear that this is just the start of a shirtdress obsession. I have, uh, 5 that I have fabric picked out for. Would y’all be interested in a post about my shirtdress dreams? Do you have a kind of garment you keep coming back to?

FO Friday: Trevi Dress

FO Friday: Trevi Dress

Pattern: Trevi Dress by Hey June Handmade

Fabric: Cotton + Steel Rifle Paper Co Les Fleurs Birch Floral in Periwinkle

Size: 10 at the bust, graded to 16 at the hips

Started: May 2018

Completed: May 2018

I am a sucker for anything with buttons down the back. It think it is such a beautiful, interesting detail. I loved that the Trevi Dress page has a sample in this same fabric in a different colorway, so I knew that it was a good canvas for this gorgeous print. I love how it came out grading 3 sizes from the bust to the hip. I think it skims my shape beautifully and I feel great in this dress. One of the things I liked about this pattern is that it came with a version with the FBA built in. I used that one and while I know the fit would be better if I had done my own, I’m pretty pleased with it.

I enjoyed the construction of the dress. It’s straightforward with the button plackets part of the back pattern pieces rather than separate. I think it makes for a cleaner and more comfortable look for the back of a garment. I’m torn on whether I should have lowered the front neck a bit. I always look at the dress and feel like it is going to be uncomfortable there, but in actuality it is not. 

My sewing queue is all summery dresses and the weather is still meltingly hot here, but I am dreaming about more cold weather garments. Have you made the seasonal switch in your crafting or not yet?

FO Friday: Sally Dress

FO Friday: Sally Dress

Pattern: Sally Dress by Very Shannon

Fabric: Cotton + Steel Rifle Paper Co Wonderland in Light Blue Metallic, Cotton + Steel Rifle Paper Co Cameos in Rose and Verna Mosquera Indigo Rose Vintage Pindot in Cherry.

Size: 5

Started: April 2017

Completed: April 2017

More old FO catch up!

My daughter loves Alice in Wonderland, so of course we had to get some of the Rifle Paper Co Alice in Wonderland fabric when it was released. There were two patterns she loved so we got a bit of each. I chose the Sally Dress because it has no closures – my daughter prefers dresses she can pull on straight overhead, and I wasn’t sad to skip installing a zipper. I also loved that the pattern had a fully lined bodice, which gave me an opportunity to use both beloved patterns. And then it occurred to me that it wasn’t much more work to add a skirt to the bodice lining and make a reversible dress!

The reversible dress meant I could show off the beautiful lining fabric, too! Making it reversible didn’t take much longer, and the ease built into the dress means that there’s plenty of room for two skirts. I tried to construct the pockets like a RTW reversible dress we own and that added a lot of time (and no, I didn’t figure it out). But it has pockets and two sides and I think it is super pretty.

I am particularly proud of the pattern placement on this dress. I managed to center Alice on both bodices, and on the blue side she’s also at the top of each shoulder framed by metallic laurels. I managed to estimate the seam allowances correctly, which is a skill I am working on.

The final thing I want to talk about with this project is a mistake I made and how I recovered from it. When I was serging the blue bodice to the skirt, I accidentally caught part of the bodice fabric and made a hole (and yes, Alice’s surprised face right over it makes me laugh). At the time I had recently learned about the Japanese practice on Kintsugi – repairing broken pottery with gold. It is a practice that sees flaws as part of the history of the object, rather than something to hide. I channeled this and mended the hole with some gold embroidery thread I had on hand.

What do you think about this practice? Would you be willing to beautifully repair broken things to show off this part of their history?

FO Friday: Colorblocked Ebony Dress

FO Friday: Colorblocked Ebony Dress

Pattern: Ebony Tee by Closet Case Patterns

Fabric: Bamboo Jersey (95% bamboo, 5% spandex) in Violet and Dark Plum

Size: 10

Started: June 2017

Completed: June 2017

More old FO catch up!

Today is the last of my series of Ebony’s – previously I shared my mint tunic and my speckled tee. I saved the best for last with this colorblocked dress. This project is exactly why I love making my own clothes, I was able to select the tonal shades I wanted and colorblock just to my specifications.

I used view A with the jewel neckline. To get the short sleeves I shortened the long sleeve pattern piece and made it .5″ wider at each side on the bottom edge. Otherwise I followed the pattern exactly, using the darker purple for the back and the lighter for the front, sleeves, and neckband. 

The resulting dress is incredibly easy to wear. I love throwing it on in the summer – the bamboo is nice and cool and the spandex gives it a pleasant bounce. It has enough volume that I can move around in it with my daughter on the playground and not feel like I’m going to be exposed. I hope to wear this Ebony trio for a long time, and if I ever need another summer jersey top I’ll be back to this pattern.

 

 

Fo Friday: Mint Ebony Tunic

Fo Friday: Mint Ebony Tunic

Pattern: Ebony Tee by Closet Case Patterns

Fabric: Knit Solids from Art Gallery in Icy Mint

Size: 10

Started: June 2017

Completed: June 2017

More old FO catch up!

This is my second of three Ebony’s I’m sharing this month. Last week it was my speckled cropped tee, and this week it is my mint tunic. I made all three of them over the course of a weekend, improving my modifications each time. This version is made up of the shoulders of version A blended with version C with my own tunic length, 4″ shorter than on the pattern. I continued to shave a bit off the shoulder width from the pattern – an additional 1/8″ on each side from my cropped tee, bringing me to 3/8″ from the original. I also eyeballed an extra 1/2″ on each side of the sleeve at the hem to make looser short sleeves. I’m pleased with how both of these mods came out!

As you can see from the styling I had originally imagined this as an exercise tee, but I actually wear it a ton for lounging, too. I would still like to make a slightly longer version more like the original tunic length. I wanted this to hit at mid-hip, but I also like how chic the pattern version looks hitting at the upper thigh. Join me next week for my summer Ebony dress!

FO Friday: Speckled Ebony Tee

FO Friday: Speckled Ebony Tee

Pattern: Ebony Tee by Closet Case Patterns

Fabric: Speckle Cotton Jersey from Robert Kaufman in Natural

Size: 10

Started: May 2017

Completed: May 2017

I’m finally catching up on some old FOs!

I adore the Ebony Dress/Tee pattern and this is the first of three of them that I’m going to share with you this month. A few months before making this I had made a winter version and I loved it so much that I wanted to make it a core part of my spring/summer wardrobe. I love this top and wear it a ton, I love how the speckles add some texture and color to a staple.

I used view A for this top, opting for the jewel neckline and shortening the sleeves. The sleeves on my dress are a bit snug so I added 1/4″ on each side and these fit more nicely. The other fitting change I made was to bring in the shoulders 1/4″ to get them to fit on my shoulder point. This top is longer than the view B crop, but shorter than a tunic. I really love how it just grazes the top of my low-rise jeans.

Stay tuned next week for my next Ebony adventure – a tunic! Do you have a pattern you’ve made a bunch of variations of? I’d love to hear about your tried and trues!

Style

Recently on Instagram there was the fantastic hashtag #myfirsthandknitsweater. It was so fun – seeing the knits that were so trendy 10 years ago, how many people used to take headless photos because we were scared to put our faces online, the pride that comes with the first handknit sweater milestone. My favorite part, though, was seeing how my friends’ style has changed since they were beginning knitters.

Lately I have been feeling bummed around clothing due to a medical device I now wear. I work hard making the clothes in my closet and they used to make me feel so good, but now they make me feel self-conscious about this device I prefer to conceal (and honestly, some of them cause the device to malfunction). I don’t want to have to change my style to accomodate my illness. So it was helpful to me to see this hashtag and remember that there are so many reasons that all of us change our style over time. I looked back at my catalog of FOs and found some comparisons to remind myself of the ways other life changes have effected my wardrobe.

 

On the left is one of my favorite outfits from 2009 – my Vintage Pink Cardigan with a camisole, skirt and red high heels. On the right is one of my favorite outfits currently – my Macoun over an Ebony tunic and jeans. In 2009 I worked in an office and had to dress business casual every day. Now I work from home and call it a win when I wear pants with buttons. I calculated perfect bust darts for the older sweater and it looked great buttoned up, but I have since learned I only like to knit wide front cardigans because I want to be able to wear them unbuttoned, too.

On the left is my favorite lacy-back from 2010, my Myrtle. I loved the close-fitting cardigan with floral lace, perfect to wear over tank tops to keep my shoulders covered in the office. In 2016 I loved the geometric lace and loose fit of my Delineate (blogged here). I used to focus on creating clothing that highlighted my hourglass figure, and now in addition to preferring more ease, I am drawn to clothing that seems fun to wear and don’t think about whether it meets the rules for what I am “allowed” to wear based on my body shape.

Seeing all this doesn’t make it any better that getting dressed is hard everyday. It doesn’t fix my dilemma about not knowing what to make next because I am still learning what I like to wear now. But it feels more like an opportunity to experiment, and less like yet another thing cancer has taken from me. How do you feel about your style over time? Have you had to adapt your style due to changes in your life?